Ginny Kolmar: Best Bites - Ella's

Open for more than 12 years, this homey restaurant serves American comfort food, even some from my Midwest childhood.

When Ella's first opened back in 1990, it was a tiny space serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, all superbly cooked. Then owner Danny had a chance to expand into the property next door and he jumped at it. Now only breakfast and lunch are served, but oh, what meals. Seating 78 diners, including many returnees, the space features warm colors, like a deep coral and country blue, with deep red and brown banquette upholstery. It all works beautifully. There are fresh flowers on every table and an open kitchen in the back of the second, expanded room.

Ella's homemade sticky buns, hash and egg dishes at breakfast are well-known all over the Bay Area. Unfortunately, a friend and I arrived five minutes too late for breakfast. But we didn't have to wait long for a table for lunch. The menu offers creative salads, soups, sandwiches and hot entrees, as well as Ella's fabulous desserts. Water and a complimentary basket of their equally wonderful breads, with sweet butter, was served as soon as we sat down.

We decided to split two dishes. One was the special Omelet of the Day, made with smoked bacon and Brie cheese, served with oven-roasted potatoes and a heavenly buttermilk biscuit, $9.25. The other dish, Pork and Pear Stew with potatoes and vegetables, came highly recommended by our hard-working and efficient waitress. She brought two empty plates so we could divide our dishes and the chef gave us extra stew. Both dishes were beyond good - they were great.

Because we had overindulged during the holidays, we reluctantly skipped the soup of the day, Corn Chowder, $3.50/cup or $4.75/bowl and desserts. Menus change often, but the menu at the begging of January included the ever-present Open-Flame Broiled Hamburger, with or without cheese, $8.25 or $9.25, or Grilled 1/4 lb. Beef Hot Dog, $6.75. They come with a choice of vegetable, salad or potato, served with chutney or BBQ sauce. From what we saw, that makes for a full meal at a pretty good price.

Chicken Salad with apples, celery, walnuts and Danish Blue cheese with an apple cider vinaigrette, $9.95, looked good, as did Grilled Salmon Salad with jicama and cucumber dressed with extra virgin olive oil and fresh lemon, $10.50. Tempting, too, was a creative sounding Cashew Egg Salad Sandwich on cornmeal molasses bread. Hot entrees cost from $9.25 for the Daily Omelet or Chicken Hash with chicken gravy and a buttermilk biscuit to a high of $10.50 for Baked and Glazed Ham with Kentucky potatoes. Most are $10.25 and included the stew, Grilled Rainbow Trout and Chicken Pot Pie.

If you're looking for a great place to take out-of-towners or yourself for breakfast or lunch or weekend brunch, Ella's is one of the best places in the entire City.

ELLA'S
500 Presidio Ave. (southeast corner at California Street)
Phone: 441-5669 - lunch reservations only) credit cards; beer and wine; difficult for wheelchairs
Hours: Monday - Friday, breakfast, 7 a.m. - 11 a.m.; lunch, 11:30 a.m. - 4 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday Brunch, 8:30 a.m. - 2 p.m.