Ginny Kolmar: East Coast West Deli

This writer has long bemoaned a "proper" Jewish delicatessen hereabouts, and now one has opened (about 10 months ago). Unfortunately, it's not in our beloved Richmond District, but on upper Polk St., a great place to browse. Since my editor allows me one restaurant review out of the Richmond District each year, this is it.

Robby Morgenstein and Tom Bock, from the east coast, plus Robert Thornton, from the west, opened the East Coast West Delicatessen after a total rehabilitation of the building's interior.

"We did a lot of work ourselves," said Morgenstein, who sat and chatted with us for a few moments on a recent Sunday.

"The tables in back and the custom-made counter in front are made of red birch veneer, as are the padded chairs, which seat approximately 60," he said.

The atmosphere at East Coast West Deli is far better than most delis.

Rotating paintings and art photos cover the long walls, on loan (and for sale) from the Ortega Art Gallery. A skylight provides great light during the day while wall sconces shed soft light in the evening.

In any deli, it isn't the service or décor that matters; it's the food. One might pine for the rude New York waiter-type approach, but here the waiters are nicer than nice.

Two out-of-town guests accompanied me for a real Jewish brunch when they stayed for the weekend. Two of us ordered a toasted bagel with cream cheese and Nova (Nova Scotia Smoked Salmon, to the uninitiated - the best and normally the most expensive smoked fish). One ordered Challah French Toast (Challah is Jewish egg bread) with maple syrup, accompanied by strips of bacon and a small cup of fresh fruit. He also decided on a side order of two Latkes (potato pancakes, so delicious), which came with what seemed to be homemade applesauce plus sour cream. We sampled the treats from each other's plates, of course.

The two pancakes were the best I've had since my childhood in Chicago. Dark brown and crunchy on the outside, soft and creamy inside, these latkes are the real thing. The Nova, too, was the best since New York visits, and it's no wonder, since all the fish comes from wholesalers in Brooklyn and meats come from the Bronx. Bagels come from The Bagelry, down the street on Polk at Vallejo, and they are superb.

If all this doesn't appeal, there are huge sandwiches, including the Philly Cheesesteak, $7.95, and multiple open face sandwiches with gravy and potatoes, $8.95 - $9.95, making for a full meal. Regular sandwiches include Corned Beef with Melted Swiss, $9.95, BBQ Beef on a Soft Roll, $8.95, Grilled Chicken Breast with lettuce and tomato on Soft Roll, $7.45, and Grilled Cheese, $4.95. The sandwiches we saw being delivered were stacked a mile high, so prices are reasonable. There are many sandwiches from which to choose.

Chicken Noodle Soup, with or without matzo balls, Cabbage Soup or Cold Borscht, plus the Soup of the Day, $2.95 for a small cup, $4.95 for a large bowl are also available. Salads include the usual kinds, plus a Chopped Salad (mixed greens, with cucumber, tomato, onion, red pepper, olives, egg, carrots, bacon and garbanzo beans), for $7.95.

Hot Plates are equally huge, with everything from Hungarian Goulash, $10.95, and Braised Brisket of Beef (Jewish pot roast with potatoes and vegetables), $10.95, to Boiled Chicken in a Pot (half chicken in consommé with noodles, matzo balls and vegetables), $9.95.

Diners can also try the Fish Platters which range in price from $7.95 for Pickled Herring in Cream Sauce to $16.95 for a Fish Combo (any three fish with choice of bread and horseradish). The huge menu also features sides/appetizers, salad platters, beverages (no alcohol) and a few desserts.

There is a separate catering menu for a family, social or business function (for 10 to 100 people).

We were delighted to be remembered on our second visit, and will go back as often as our weight can manage. We wish to offer a very belated welcome to our new neighbors, just outside of Pacific Heights. I hope they open a new branch in our Richmond District.

EAST COAST WEST DELICATESSEN

1725 Polk St. (between Washington and Clay streets)

Phone: 563-3542

Fax: 776-0231

Visa/MC; wheelchair accessible

Hours: Seven days a week, 10 a.m. - 9 p.m.; Breakfast: Saturday - Sunday, 8 a.m. - noon

Atmosphere: **

Service: ***

Food: ****

Price: **

Overall: **** (the best!)