Peg Wallace: Cajun Pacific

Travel all the way down Irving Street towards the beach and you'll find Cajun Pacific - a homey little spot guaranteed to set your taste buds on fire.

A small spot that accommodates maybe 40 people - more on a nice day when there is seating outside - the atmosphere is relaxed and the decor whimsical. Colorful Mardi Gras beads are tossed everywhere, even in the trees outside.

The service is perfectly relaxed, too. Our wineglasses were always full and our plates were promptly cleared - yet we never felt our waitress was hanging over our shoulders.

Peeking inside, it is hard to believe that so much flavor is produced in such a tiny kitchen. From the moment our waitress plopped down a basket of fresh-out-of-the-oven corn bread, we knew we would not be disappointed. Fragrant and spicy, the corn bread was studded with whole corn kernels, chopped red bell and jalapeno peppers. Often corn bread runs the risk of being too dry, but not so at Cajun Pacific. The bread was so moist it didn't even need butter on it.

On a friend's recommendation, we immediately ordered the crawfish beignets, served with a horseradish dipping cream. The cream was a nice compliment, but the beignets on their own would have more than satisfied us. Crisp and spicy, the beignets were light and yeasty with hints of crawfish that tantalized, not overpowered, the palate. Six beignets come in an order, but we could have easily eaten more.

A necessity to any true Cajun menu is oysters, served several ways. We ordered both the fried and barbecued oysters, and both were done right. The barbecued oysters were a smoky, briny treat, while the cornmeal batter of the fried oysters offered a wonderful crunchy contrast to the warm, soft center.

The house gumbo is packed with flavors that work well together. The spicy Andouille sausage is nicely married with mild shrimp, and the depth of flavor in the sauce allows all the various ingredients to peek through, resulting in a flavorful and complex dish. It's all too easy to pack too much heat into gumbo, but here the hearty broth delivers a slow, rich heat that never overpowers.

Entrees include New Orleans Barbecue Shrimp, which is not a traditional barbecue sauce, but a basted and grilled dish, sauteed in a surprisingly light sauce. Slightly tangy and sweet, the sauce was so enticing we used spoons to scoop up the remaining sauce. Served alongside was a pile of crisp sauteed green beans and zucchini.

The Cajun Meatloaf Platter offered a spin on traditional meatloaf, with an extra kick delivered by chunks of Andouille sausage. The meatloaf was moist and spicy, smothered with melted cheese and a house Creole sauce. The platter of comfort food was made complete by a generous mound of roasted garlic mashed potatoes. The stuffed pork chop we ordered was juicy, tender and grilled to perfection. The pork chop was topped with sweet potato gravy, a perfect complement to the savory oyster and Tasso ham stuffing.

Cajun Pacific is also famous for their Po-Boys, the traditional New Orleans sandwich. Meat lovers will love the spicy grilled Andouille sausage with caramelized Vidalia onions and chipotle aioli and the grilled pork chop and gravy Po-Boys.

Various fried seafood offerings include catfish, shrimp or oysters, all served on a French roll with Cajun remoulade. For veggie lovers, there is a Po-Boy loaded with grilled vegetables that have been marinated in chili oil and then smothered with a blackened onion confit.

Desserts are traditional Cajun fare, including Bread Pudding, Sweet Potato Pie, fresh fruit cobbler of the day and, of course, Pecan Pie.

The slab of pecan pie was topped with Chantilly cream, and was enough to feed both of us. The pie was just as pecan pie should be, crunchy and dense; the sweet cream was a soothing finish to the spiciness of the meal.

Excellent food, a relaxed atmosphere and the friendly staff make a trip to Cajun Pacific well worthwhile.

Cajun Pacific

4542 Irving St. (at 47th Avenue)

Phone: 504-6652

Catering available

Beer and wine served

MasterCard/Visa

Hours: Tuesday ­Thursday, 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday - Saturday, noon to 10 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 9 p.m.

Atmosphere: **

Food:****

Service: ***

Overall: ***